From the groaning tables of King Arthur's court in the
fourteenth century poem Sir Gawain and the Green Knight (http://pagetoplate.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/festivities-at-medieval-court.html)
through to Mrs Portman’s pea soup in Thackeray’s short story, “A Little Dinner
at Timmins” (http://pagetoplate.blogspot.co.uk/2014/11/pea-soup.html) , food
has been used by writers as an indicator of wealth and social status.
Samuel Richardson's epistolary novel, Pamela,
first published in 1740, is greatly concerned with social status and the
possibilities of social mobility. Pamela
Andrews, the novel's 15 year-old protagonist, is a maidservant in a country
house in which she has worked since the age of 12. When the novel opens, Pamela's mistress has
just died, leaving her in the service of Mr B____ (his full surname is never
given), her former mistress's son. Mr
B___________ is attracted to Pamela but since she is not his social equal,
instead of proposing marriage to her, he does everything in his power to seduce
her. He offers her money, hides in her
closet, abducts and imprisons her and threatens her when she refuses his offer
to become his mistress.
Despite Mr B________’s attempts, Pamela is determined to
keep her virtue. Whilst Richardson’s
emphasis on Pamela’s sexual purity may seem rather old-fashioned and priggish
nowadays, his giving a voice to a servant girl and making her the protagonist
of his novel was a radical move. At a
time when servants would have been considered almost the property of their
masters, and expected to obey their every wish, Pamela’s insistence on her
right to do as she likes with her body and her refusal to succumb to his
desires or accept his money marks her out as extremely brave. As she says to Mr B____, when he reprimands
her for speaking so bluntly to him and forgetting her place, “Well may I forget
that I am your servant, when you forget what belongs to a master.” She also challenges the prevailing belief
that her low social status makes her an acceptable object for his depravity, “O
Sir! My soul is of equal importance with the soul of a princess; though my
quality is inferior to that of the meanest slave.”
One of Mr B________’s methods of seduction is to offer to
elevate Pamela socially if she does as he wishes: he promises to make her a
gentlewoman. He offers her money, buys
her costly dresses and provides her with foodstuffs that mark her out as having
‘gentle’ status. Early on in the novel,
Mr B_______ appears to relent to Pamela’s demands and agrees that Pamela may
return home. He provides her with a
carriage and she is given “some plum cakes, and diet bread … and some
sweet-meats and six bottles of Canary wine” to take with her. Diet bread was a special bread made for
invalids from very finely ground – and thus more expensive - flour, and plum
cakes (which, despite the name, contain no plums, but dried fruit instead) were
usually made for Christmas and weddings: both foodstuffs thus mark Pamela’s
special status.
Of course Mr B_________ only has his own interests at
heart. The carriage does not take Pamela
home, but rather to his Lincolnshire estate where she is kept prisoner. Whilst she is put through a terrible
experience, I hope the food might have provided some consolation. And in honour of the feisty Pamela, I present
a plum cake. Extant recipes from the
period include those found in The
Experienced English Housewife by Elizabeth Raffald (1769) and in Mrs
Rundell’s A New System of Domestic
Cookery (1806), the latter requiring the cook to beat the mixture for one
hour before putting it in the oven! Needless to say I didn’t! Mrs Rundell’s recipe also includes an icing
made of icing sugar, egg white and orange-flower water; I used icing sugar and
lemon juice instead, and it tasted fine.
PAMELA’S PLUM CAKE
Ingredients:
170g currants
170g raisins
4 tablespoons brandy
225g self-raising flour
¾ tsp ground mace
¾ tsp grated nutmeg
½ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp allspice
|
225g butter
115g soft dark brown sugar
110g caster sugar
Grated zest of ½ lemon
4 eggs beaten
60g ground almonds
60g flaked almonds
60ml milk
|
Method:
Soak the dried fruit in the brandy overnight.
Preheat the oven to 150C / Gas mark 2. Grease and line a deep 8 inch / 20cm cake tin
with a removable base. Line the outside
with a double layer of foil or greaseproof paper and tie with string.
Sift the flour and spices into a bowl.
In a separate bowl cream together the butter and sugar until
pale and fluffy. Beat in the eggs a
little at a time, adding 1 tablespoon of flour after each addition to avoid the
mixture curdling.
Fold in the remaining flour and then stir in the
remaining ingredients.
Spoon the mixture into the cake tin and bake for 2 ½ - 3
hours until a skewer or cake tester inserted into the centre comes out
clean.
When the cake is cold, dribble icing made with the juice
of half a lemon mixed with approximately 4 tablespoons sifted icing sugar over
the top, allowing it to drip down the sides of the cake.
No comments:
Post a Comment