In contrast to the few non-specific references to eating in
Anglo-Saxon literature, medieval literature, particularly that dating from the
later Middle Ages (14th and 15th centuries), contains far more references to food. Fish,
stews, pies, bread and sweetmeats, all washed down with ale and wine, are
scattered through the pages of many texts from the period.
A medieval feast, from
Les Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, an early 15th century French
book of hours
The Church played a prominent role in Medieval England. That is not to say that everyone believed in
God and attended church every Sunday, but the year was shaped by the various
high days and holy days of the liturgical year, and the Church made its
presence felt in the practices and rituals of everyday life. This was clearly seen in food practices of
the period, which are then reflected in contemporary literature. Approximately one third of the year was
defined as a period of fasting, which meant severe restrictions on what could
be eaten: this included Wednesdays, Fridays (in commemoration of Christ being
crucified on Good Friday) and Saturdays; Advent (the season of approximately
four weeks that leads up to Christmas) and Lent (the 40 days between Ash
Wednesday and Easter). Meat could not be
consumed at these times, though fish could, and in Advent and Lent it was
customary to refrain from eating all animal products, including eggs and
dairy. These restrictions account for
the eating practices of Shrove Tuesday (Pancake Day), the day before Ash
Wednesday, when pancakes were – and still continue to be – made as a way of
using up all the dairy products in the house before the 40 days of Lent.
Complaints about the constraints of a Church-regulated
medieval diet, particularly for those who lived away from the coastline and
thus had little, if any, access to fresh fish, are expressed in a 15th
century poem, “Farewell Advent” by James Ryman, who is thought to have been a
Franciscan friar from Canterbury. In the poem the speaker complains about the
hardships he and his fellow-humans have endured during Advent.
They have been going “hungrye to bed”, and “For lak of mete... were
nighe [nearly] dead”. Deprived of “puddings”
and “souse [pickled pork]”, and since “There was no freshe fishe, ferre ne nere”,
and “Salt fish and salmon was too dere”, their diet has been a paltry one. The speaker refers to “stinking fishe”, “plaices
thin, / Nothing on them but bone and skin”, “browne” “musty” bread and “thin”
and “soure” ale. That being the case, it’s
no surprise that, despite his clerical status, Ryman cannot wait to see the
back of Advent and welcome in the festivities of Christmas. The full poem can be accessed at: http://www.hymnsandcarolsofchristmas.com/Hymns_and_Carols/fare_wele_aduent_cristemas_is_cum.htm
However, in other literature from the period references to
fish are far more positive.
Medieval net fishing
In the
best-known English text of the Middle Ages, Geoffrey Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales (c.1380s – 1400), one
of the storytelling pilgrims, the Franklin, who is described as an Epicurean,
keeps bream and pike in a fishpond (for personal consumption). Pike, a fish rarely eaten nowadays, is also
referred to as a foodstuff in The Book of
Margery Kempe (c. 1430s). This book,
often described as the first autobiography in English, recounts the later years
of an East Anglian wife and mother, from Kings Lynn, and her desire to pursue a
religious life in the world, as opposed to within the constraints of a convent, a decision that often set her at odds with the religious establishment of the
day. She records that she was invited to
dinner “on a fish day at a good man’s table” and was “served with various fish,
such as red herring and good pike” (trans. Barry Windeatt, Penguin Books, 1985,
p. 288). And in fact fish play a central
role in the Christmas festivities of the late 14th century chivalric
romance Sir Gawain and the Green Knight
(about which there will be more in my next post). Fish are served up in a myriad of ways at the
Green Knight’s court. The original text
reads:
........................................................and
fele kyn fische3,
Summe baken in bred, summe brad on þe
glede3,
Summe soþen, summe in sewe sauered
with spyces,
And ay sawses so sle3e þat þe segge
liked. (ll. 890-893, from W. R. J.
Barron’s edition, published by Manchester University Press, 1974)
This
translates as: “and many kinds of fish, / Some baked in pie-crust (or bread),
some grilled on the embers, / Some poached (or boiled), some in stew flavoured
with spices, and all with sauces so skilfully made as to please the
knight.”
ROASTED SALMON IN
SAUCE
As luck would have it, I found in one of my old university
text books (The Oxford Book of Late
Medieval Verse and Prose, ed. Douglas Gray [Oxford University Press, 1988]),
a medieval fish recipe, taken from a late 15th century manuscript:
“Sawmon Irosted in sauce” (Roasted salmon in sauce). The original recipe reads:
Take and cutte a sawmon rownde in
peces. Roste hem apon a gredeyrne. And take wyne and poudere of canell
(cinnamon), and drawe hit thorowe a streynour; mince onyons smale, and do
togeder, and let boyll. Then take
venegur or verjus, and poudere gynger, salte, and do therto. Then ley the sawmon in a dyshe, and poure the
seryppe all aboute, and serve it furthe.
(page 134)
As you can see, medieval recipe writers were far from
precise in their ingredients (no measurements) and in their instructions (no
timings)! But this is my version of it,
with a little more precision than the original version.
Ingredients (per
person):
1 salmon fillet
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 shallot (chopped finely)
¼ teaspoon cinnamon
60ml red wine
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
Salt and pepper
Method:
Brush the salmon fillet with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil,
season lightly with salt and pepper, and then cook both sides evenly, either in
a griddle pan or under a hot grill. Warm
the other tablespoon of olive oil in a small saucepan, and then fry the chopped
shallot until soft and translucent. Add
the cinnamon, fry briefly, then stir in the red wine and bring to the
boil. Reduce to a simmer, then add the
vinegar, ground ginger and salt; continue to simmer until the liquid has
reduced by one third. Pour over the
salmon; I served it accompanied by mushrooms and spinach (stir-fried in olive
oil).
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